We made coffee, started the engine and slipped our mooring line. We motored out the channel and re-entered the sea with a little green water over the clean decks. The main was unfurled, we turned to port and we set course, west with a trade wind and following seas.

It wasn’t long until we arrived at our planned destination, Oracabessa. We passed the entrance of an exclusive resort and then entered the harbor. The outer reef was dotted with fishing buoys that we assumed to be lobster pots. Oracabessa is a very small and well protected harbour lined with golden sandy beach and low rise resort style facilities and accommodation. Unfortunately another cruising yacht had taken a central anchoring position and there would be possible complexities to accommodate our three yacht flotilla. The next anchorage Ocho Rios was only a few hours away, this was on my avoid list however we had no alternatives as in a few days we expected an unfavourable weather front.

Ocho Rios was everything that we expected, a cruise ship almost completed blocked the harbour entrance and the anchorage was lined with hotels. We negotiated around the jet-ski hydro lift toy and dropped anchor. It is a well-protected anchorage with a sandy beach. It wasn’t long until the Chukka day tripper catamaran arrived. The music was blearing “Jump, Jump, I said Jump”. What appeared to be an overcrowded party yacht was full of sunburnt, alcohol infused party people who were being led by an energised crew and DJ. They entered the harbour, hovered at the dolphin cage, and blasted the bay with noise then moved on. It was not the prettiest of spots, a tourist haven and not the natural and real Jamaica that we’d experienced to date.

Small Dolphin Cage

Waterfall Near Ocho Rios

Ocho Rios

All things aside, it was ideal for our Australia Day Celebration, this year we were joined by Tourterelle and Seahorse for the barbie, a few beers and rum cocktails (when in Rome). We even found another Aussie red in the cellar. Just as a side note, its official we are out of wine and I cannot bring myself to pay $20 for a bottle of Yellow Tail (or similar) that could only make a questionable Sangria. Kim has mastered the pav using the boats oven, another success. It was topped with the super tasty bananas (not like the flavourless product from home) and passionfruit that also grabbed your taste buds with turbo flavours. A fun day with friends and this year we didn’t have any new winners of the Ken Robertson Swimming Award.

Australia Day

The next day we started to roll so it was time to move on in search of a more comfortable anchorage. The swell was building and we had 2m – 3m from the east, we didn’t have quite enough breeze to sail so we motored sailed with just our genoa. We had the fishing lines out again however no success, just weed and few pieces of plastic that collected from the sea. We entered Discovery Bay with surfing waves breaking on each side of the reef. This is a large bay that is open to the north and the easterly swell was also entering over the reef. It was going to be one of those nights, only if we had a catamaran….We rocked and rolled until first light; we lifted our anchor and headed back to the comfort of the ocean. At least both ourselves and the sea swell would travel in the same direction. We watched a plume of bauxite dust in the air as we past the ship being loaded at the terminal on the opposite side of the bay. Next stop Montego Bay.

Passage 2 Discovery Bay

Breaking Wave on Reef

Discovery Bay (other side is pretty)

We had sum reservation about stopping at the famous Montego Bay. A State of Emergency was in force for the parish. Gang violence had escalated and we were told that the police did not command the respect from the local community. The military was on the streets and some foreign governments had told their citizens to stay in their hotels. The marina manager had explained to us not to be concerned as the recent shootings were not directed at tourists and with so many police and military visible, it was a good time to visit.

Many artists have sung about Montego Bay and now as we approach I ponder if they ever visited this place. From the water there isn’t any obvious adoring qualities, it’s just a mangrove lined bay if you ignore the airport, two cruise ships and port industrial buildings. The beach fronts on each side of the bay are lined with sand and hotels. Maybe the town itself has the treasure?

The wind was now blowing 22 knots and we looked at the small anchorage near the yacht club. There was one and half mile of open water with the wind racing across and a sheltered 15 knots. The wind is forecast to increase and the Active Capitan reports say the holding is only average. Plus it would be tight squeeze between yachts that had already anchored. We had read about Bogue Bay, it was just on the other side however the charts showed the entrance as 2.1m. Our draft is 2.1 and we have 20cm of favourable tide. We moved around to the entrance and gave it ago. We followed Tourterelle at a snail’s pace. As they say you haven’t been adventurous enough if you haven’t touched (or just being stupid?). We did and scratched our new paint on the bottom of the keel. No damage…it just hurt our pride. With our tail between our legs we aborted and returned to Montego Bay.

Montego Bay (Mangroves and Fisherman's Shacks)

We moved across to the other size of the bay, closer to the town and found a sheltered spot near Pier One in 3 meters of water not far from Aqua Lobo (a family of Kiwis on a Cayman registered motor yacht). With no rolling we relaxed and slept well. The next morning we were visited by the local marine police, friendly guys who then directed us to the cruise ship terminal to visit customs. We did so and those customs officials then directed us to the yacht club where they would sent an officer to duplicate and reissue our clearance documents. Once the bureaucracy was complete we returned to Aura then set about exploring the town. The streets were busy with tourists and locals alike. We found the usual tourist curio shops and fresh fruit and vegetable carts on the side of the street. We walked to a larger MegaMart that was a mile out of town where we restocked with a few items. We enjoyed lunch at Pier One. It was quite until 50 Germans from a cruise ship joined us. After lunch the bar’s MC had a few activities and we ended up on the stage. Each couple was introduced; first the Austrian’s then us only to be confused with our accent as also being Austrian. A blind folded couples game with a stick and cup, with the stick needing to find the hole. With only Kim’s voice as guidance we blitzed it with a record 6 second win. Free drinks for us!

Lunch @ Pier One

As the sun set the swell started to roll in with the waves almost breaking. Oh no, not another night of rolling. It was getting so bad that even making dinner was a daunting feat. We lifted our anchor and returned to the yacht club. There was little wind with only a slight swell rolling in…much nicer than across the bay. In the dark on the third attempt our anchor held in 8 meters of water with over 60 meters of chain out so to avoid another yacht on warp (rope not chain) , as they are likely to swing differently to us). Another sleepless night while we kept on eye on the other yacht. The wind dropped out completely so we spent the night turning in circles on the weight of our anchor chain. This isn’t fun so with daylight we put the dingy away and started lifting our anchor. This process took Kim nearly an hour as the chain was caked with mud and each link needed to be hosed clean. We left Montego Bay as another cruise ship was entering…glad we visited but not one of our favourite spots. We were desperate to find a calm anchorage and clear waters…next stop…Bloody Bay.

Notes

Ocho Rios 18 24.657 77 06.4330 – 3m sand

Discovery Bay 18 27.89 77 24.1 – 5m sand

Montego Bay 18 28.126 77 55.641 – 3m sand

Montego Bay 18 27.728 77 56.481 – 8m mud (poor/average holding)