As we approached in pitch black darkness we could see dotted lights on shore, the sound of booming music and the smell of small domestic fires. As we got closer to land the wind changed direction so it was on our nose. The temperature had dropped so we had to pull out the long sleeve t-shirts. . We assume this was the katabatic wind coming down from the mountains. In the ambient light we could make just make out the shadows of the mountain range, such a contrast to the flat Bahamian beaches that we had recently departed.

We had arrived at Port Antonio… it was 4am. We anchored at the East Bay in 6 meters of water close to shore in between friends yachts Seahorse and Tourterelle. The next morning we woke to a quite murmur of traffic and tropical rain. We soon moved to the marina in the nearby West Bay. It’s a Med-Moor setup and we were instructed to dock next to the super yacht. Gee, we look small next to a 43 meter motor yacht. I think this was our first time on a super yacht dock. We dropped the anchor and moved astern to affix our stern warp lines to the dock. Thankfully without a 25 knot cross wind that I so dreaded in Mandraki Harbour, Greece. Fortunately West Bay was like a millpond without a breath of wind.

We hadn’t been in a marina since September at South River Edgewater. We did have a few boat jobs on the list and yet we did plan on enjoying the pool side bar and restaurant plus unlimited Wi-Fi. The local Wi-Fi wasn’t the best but we were happy with the ice cold beer and the reasonable Caribbean prices.

The town of Port Antonio was made famous as a tourist destination by the actor Errol Flynn who took up residency. There are stories that his yacht Zacao had ran aground near the town, he later established a hotel resort and made Bamboo River Rafting a tourist adventure. We really like this town and its friendly vibe. I still can’t shake the reggae and Bob Marley tunes from my head “I don’t like cricket man, oh no, I love it….” Ah that's 10CC but what does it matter. Jamaica is famous for rum, bananas, coffee and grass. Bob Marley must be the most recognised icon along with the winter Olympic bobsled team. We’re still in the land of English colonies and thus the usual famous pirates visited these shores. Let’s explore!

Once we ventured past the security gates, I was surprised. This isn’t the Jamaica that I had envisaged. It’s a lovely Caribbean town, a little broken yet still clean. The people are friendly but I was expecting a lot more Rastafarian. The vast majority of people go about their day in neatly ironed clothes with the men sporting short sharp haircuts. I thought that I’d blend in with my long hair and just for the record while in town I did have a haircut, a reasonable trim. We explored the fresh produce market that includes an open air section of butcher stalls. There was an abundant array of fresh fruits and vegetables, Jamaica appears to be self-sufficient, such a contrast to the Bahamas where near scuffles would break out at the Georgetown store when fresh produce arrived. The bakery was around the corner along with a small grocery store. We found a locals restaurant upstairs near the market entrance and we enjoyed a jerk chicken and rice plus a local Red Stripe beer. All for only 1,650 Jamaican… that’s about A$18 a very reasonable sum for two. It’s great to be back in the Caribbean.

The Market

Once we’d finished work, that’s our boat job list such as an oil change on the generator and outboard. We considered a few tour options. The original Errol Flynn hotel on the nearby island had closed many years ago. We planned to take the paddle boards and have a look around. Further afield options included a bamboo river raft trip, the Blue Lagoon and to visit the local water falls. Reach Falls caught our attention and we could stop at the Blue Lagoon. The lagoon was made famous with the movie featuring ship wrecked Brooke Shields and Christopher Atkins. There was also an option to stop at the beach resort where the movie Cocktail was filmed (Tom Cruise & Brian Brown). Around this globe we have visited a few waterfalls and I must admit that these are brilliant as we could just float down the rapids or chill under the power of the falling water. We especially loved the rabbit hole. A torrent of water falling into a hole. Trusting our guide we just jumped and popped up in an underground cave. It was very special. We also passed a beef farm with a conservative size home that was once owned Errol Flynn’s. Today his grandson lives and manages the farm.

Jump!

Rabbit Hole Jump

On the way home we did stop at the Blue Lagoon. It was a little touristy for us with a number of villa apartments surrounding the lagoon plus the raft trip to the island wasn’t so appealing. It is still a natural beauty that we all appreciated.

The Blue Lagoon

Travis and Mary (Seahorse) (also with Mary-Hellen) organised a local Rastafarian by the name of Scario to take us on a tour of the local hills where he picks bush food to sell to tourists. He puffed on his joint as we walked up step hills where he showed us Jamaican apples, bread fruit, plantain, lemon grass, soursop and aloe vera. We explored an abandoned hotel resort that has commanding views of the town and out to sea. He picked a little lemon grass from the roads edge. It was obviously the fence line of a local market farmer. Ah so that’s his secret garden …… “borrowed” produce…… he did show us his own garden that was further up on the hill.

Bush Garden Walk

While in town we also took the opportunity to visit a small coffee plantation. We learnt that most of the coffee beans produced are sold to a Chinese owned factory near Kingston. The farm we visited proudly showed us the traditional mortar and pestle used to separate the husk and the beans. We toured the farm and they pointed out other plants such as pineapples, guava and Jamaican orchids.

Coffee Beans

Guava

Coffee Bush (tree)

Jamaican Orchid ?

Blue Mountains

The Production Process & Facility

Jerk Pork

Heading Home & Lunch

We popped over to Navy Island, the location of Errol Flynn’s hotel resort. The buildings are now just ruins and nature is taking over. The main dining area was named the “Errol Flynn Room” may have once featured an indoor rock water fall and we could make out a few fresco paintings. The buildings are way past any restoration, the location and history would make a great beach bar.

Navy Island

Another week of strong wind is forecast so it was time for a change and time to move on. When we first arrived we had quarantine, immigration and customs on-board followed by the coast guard. The local marine police wanted to also say hello but we dodged them with a trip to the showers. Before leaving Port Antonio, we cleared out with customs and immigration at the marina office. They were once again super friendly. On our departure we received a cruising permit, our route to Kingston was recorded and we would make our way via the north coast, the long way round. We are not planning on visiting Kingston, it’s just a formality and in due course we’ll decide our next port and country. While in Jamaica, I expect we’ll be visited by the police and/or coast guard, at each new port. We do need to check in with customs. They will keep watch over us as they want to ensure the safety of their tourists.

Next stop,...Oracabessa.

Note - East Bay anchored 18 10.85 76 26.55 – 6m mud