Symi back to Rhodes and back again
There is something incredibly beautiful about the Greek islands. The barren landscape is the first thing that you notice, especially after spending a couple of months in Turkey. What they lack in greenery they make up for in architecture and a can of paint. Most of the older villages are built precariously on top of a hill, the streets wind in all directions and often finish with a dead end. I am sure it made a lot of sense when the villages were being chased by pirates but not that easy to navigate for the unsuspecting tourist (aka me).
After spending a few days exploring Rhodes with Eddie and Jan, we headed to the island of Symi. We spent a couple of nights in the nearly deserted bay of Ormos Nanou. A very pleasant change after the hustle and bustle of Rhodes. Day three we decided that we were up for some more human interaction so we up anchor and moved around the corner to the bay of Pedi. A lovely bay with a taverna and supermarket. A bus that ran hourly to Symi town. Si and I decided that it was time to stretch the legs and walk the hill to Symi harbour where we ran into Liz and Des Lord on “Abrolhos”.
After several days in Pedi we decided that we needed to a change of scenery so we headed around the corner to Ay Marina. A bay with crystal clear water, sand plus a beach bar and restaurant. Anchoring in just 3 meters of water, we took a line to shore as there was little room to swing. We had several motor yachts join us during the day and a few sun lovers that are brought in by ferry during the day. By 4pm, everyone departed and we had the bay to ourselves.
On our last night at Symi, we decided to move back to Pedi as strong winds were forecast. As per the norm, the forecast wasn’t accurate and we had a lovely calm night on anchor. We did go into Symi town for a lovely lunch at the Olive Tree run by a couple of English expats and we discovered a few “Grand Design” potentials with commanding views of the harbor.
The next morning we attempted to up anchor, well maybe not as effortlessly as we would have like as we were down and not going anywhere. After some manoeuvring in circles giving the “dock & go” technology a good workout, we finally lifted the anchor and headed back to Rhodes. We had a great sail with the wind finally coming from the right direction and at a reasonable speed. We contacted our agent Nicolos who directed us to our berth. The space did not have lazy lines so we had to drop the anchor and reverse into this tiny space in 25 knts of wind. Mandraki harbour is ancient and is renowned for boats fouling their anchor (getting caught on another anchor). As we came in we had about 30 spectators…no pressure what so ever. We got it first time!! So proud of ourselves though I did have some great instruction from the guys on the boat next to us. So glad to make it in without incident and be greeted by John and Jane (“Catching the Wind”) who we had not seen since leaving Marmaris.
As we only had a few days left with Eddie and Jan, Si went with Eddie to visit the Grand Masters Castle.
The next day we went to Lindos. It was very busy (not quiet how I remembered it 15 years ago) and Jan and I enjoyed the view of Lindos from a lovely roof top restaurant while the boys climbed the Acropolis. Another lovely lunch before heading back to Rhodes.
Jan and Eddie took us to dinner where we probably had the best meal thus far in Greece. The following morning we went with Jan and Eddie to bid a sad goodbye as they headed to Rome for their next part of their trip.
We stayed an extra day in Rhodes waiting for the wind to decrease in speed (always too much or too little). Next stop, Tilos with a stopover at Symi in the bay of Panormittis. We had wind however it was coming from the exact direction that we were heading. Si decided that he would make the most of the wind tack, tack, tack, tack. Seven hours later we made the 20nm to Panormittis...not happy Jan! Panormittis has a good sized monastery with the service broadcast with loud speakers across the bay. The next morning the wind had completely dropped out and we set off early to motor to Tilos.