We arrived at Tilos in record time with Si more than happy to use the iron sail. We docked with ease, picking up a lazy line at the town marina instead of anchoring and organising the dingy to go ashore. What has changed you might ask? The Rugby of course. We set off to explore the main platia (πλατεία) and find a taverna that might be televising the game. The only televised sport was the Euro2016. After 3 strikes, we headed back to AURA rather disheartened when the local harbourmaster suggested that we try the café next door. The two guys that ran the establishment spend about half an hour trying to locate the channel. In the end, they kindly used the internet to stream the game on the “big screen”. They went to so much trouble to get it working, shame that the outcome was not in our favour.

We both loved Tilos. The water was an amazing blue with a lovely pebbly beach. After the disappointment of the Rugby, we shouted ourselves a beach chair and enjoyed the gorgeous weather. That evening they had a local festival on with traditional music and dancing. Great atmosphere with the entire village turning out to watch.

The next day we decided it was time to stretch the legs and see some of the island. Our “old mate” the harbourmaster suggested a nice “sandy” beach about 2.5 km away. The track was literally a goat track that wound its way along the coast, up and around the hill, with amazing views of the bays below. We finally made it to the deserted beach…with peddles. Maybe the word sand did not translate? Enduring the heat and rugged terrain we’d hoped for a little taverna or a shop that sold cool drinks or ice cream……that wasn’t the case. It was just us and the goats. I tried to convince Si to come skinny dipping with me. His response was that someone will turn up….I mean really, who would be mad enough to come to such an isolated spot along a rugged track on such a hot day. Sure enough, five minutes after getting into the water (takes a while with all those stones) a person appeared. As you can imagine, Si could not stop laughing…I just stayed in the water and froze until they wandered further down the beach.

We left Tilos for the island of Astypalea. We motored sailed with a very pleasant 12-20knts most of the way.

As we approached Astypalea, we had mobile 3G coverage and I was able to check the weather. It showed that they were expecting 40knt winds from the SE. We looked at the anchorage that we planned to stay the night however it had very little protection from the south. We read that there was a sheltered bay that we had already passed that might provide us with some added protection so we headed back the way we came. The bay was very narrow with another yacht already anchored in the best position. We anchored and took three lines to shore. Si spent about an hour in the water making sure he was happy with the position of the lines. Once we were secure the wind completely dropped out. At midnight I woke to wind gusts that slowly increased to 50knts. We adjusted the anchor and lines as best we could but were being pushed closer to the shore. I kept my eye on the latitude and longitude readings for the remainder of the night praying that we would not end up on the rocks. By the time the sun came up, we were about a meter from the rocks. The anchor had served us well but we were dragging! It was time to move. We had to motor forward and get the lines in fast so I decided I had to get in the water while Si maneuvered AURA. I managed to release all three shore lines, the last was holding AURA in place. Once released, Si moved AURA forward to the middle of the bay, about 50 meters away. I held the line tight, being dragged along behind. With strong winds and chop, I was taking in water….and I started freaking out. Si managed to pull me in. I climbed on board with legs shaking and retrieve the anchor. Disaster avoided!

We decided to move to a bay that offered better protection from southerly winds, it was approximately 5 nautical mile trip to the north of the island. Once we left our bay, we soon realised how protected we were. Choppy seas and 40knt winds resulted in a very turbulent passage that took twice as long as expected….2.5 hrs. I stayed below while Simon did a great job battling the elements to get us to the land locked bay of Vathi. It was very well protected, the entrance was only 25m wide thus almost land locked. It was such a relief to be in tranquil water again. The past 12 hours was not something that I want to repeat anytime soon.

We rested and relaxed overnight and decided to take advantage of the wind direction the following morning and head to the island to overnight in Amorgos before heading to Ios. Amorgos had all the typical surroundings, rugged hills a few houses dotted the landscape and a few ruins. The island on this bay was a former leper colony…just a little trivia. We had the bay to ourselves before moving onto Ios.

I have fond memories of Ios from my early back backing days and again in 2000 with Andrew, Flic and Keith and a legendary fig fight. I had resolved that we’d make a stop in Ios so I could show Si around. As we were coming from the south, we made a stop at Manganari bay. According to the pilot book it is meant to be a nudist beach….looking, looking…nope…he must not have updated that section of his book. What it did have was the most beautiful turquoise water and a sandy beach. After being confined to the yacht for the last three days, we lowered the dingy and went exploring. The family run taverna served us a lovely meal before we settling down to another windy night.

The next morning we moved to the main beach in Ios, Milopotamou bay. I remember it as a quiet beach that allowed you to get away from the madness of the village. Now it is hotels, beach chairs, bars, restaurants and more bars. Oh and lots of 20 something year olds (somethings have not changed). We had fun exploring the port and the village (chora), picking up some much needed provisions. Also we had to find a place that televised the Rugby the following day. The “Far Out” village mentioned that they would televise it as the majority of their clientele are Australian. Happy Simon!!

We arrived early Sunday morning in eager anticipation of watching the game. Not only did they televise the rugby, they had it up on the big screen ready for us. Very sweet of them considering the expected rent a crowd did not show. Fortunately we did not have to fight for front row seats. After a disappointing result, we went back to AURA, had a few more drinks to drown our sorrows before heading back to the pool bar that had opening night with a DJ. It actually reminded me a lot of a Cottesloe Beach Hotel Sunday session (or KM8 Sentosa). Drinks were free pour (great margaritas) and great tunes. Fun night…fortunately we had to head back to AURA before it was completely dark as we didn’t have a torch. In hindsight it was a good thing. No wind that night (finally) so up bright and early to head for Sifnos.

In Sifnos we anchored in a bay of Vathi. Once again, aqua blue water and a small village but this time a sandy beach plus the hills are terraced and not so rugged. For three days we had lovely calm weather. Unfortunately that was short lived as once again we were blasted by the Meltimi wind. This time it blew for 3 days, 35 to 45 knots. We are in charter yacht territory and thus the entertainment begins. The bay would be nearly empty before lunch and late afternoon another flotilla of charter yachts would arrive. We were perplexed with their need to maintain the schedule and head out each morning only to be bashed by wild seas and unforgiving winds. Over several nights we had many yachts drag anchor, most without incident however one night in the early hours we woke to extra strong gusts and to watch a 50’ yacht drag anchor and collide with a 100 plus foot sailing Guillet that then also dragged. Rigging and staunches tangled in the darkness. A miserable episode for these peoples holiday.

We gave names to the new arrivals, the loud yacht was named Chuck (everybody in the bay could hear every word) and the Germans who couldn’t get their anchor to hold (after 10 or more attempts) we named Hans. Si did take the dingy over and asked if they needed any assistance. They thanked him but declined and continued the same flawed anchoring technique….. and so the naming and the evening performances went on. We did have a favourite, a French flagged yacht, they arrived on the same days as us. A Beneteau Sense, the same model as AURA. They anchored a good distance from our stern and it was almost like looking in a mirror. On day three or four, we took a short dingy ride to introduce ourselves. They too were waiting for a weather window. Eventually they moved on, our reference point that we used in the dark was going and we said au revoir.

We finally decided that the worst of the wind had passed and headed north to Serifos. We got out there and it was still blowing 30-35knts. We did manage to do some sailing and broke our record of 17nm in 7.5hrs. That was with motoring for the last hour. Serifos was another nice bay though a bit more touristy. We did the 2.5km walk to the village up the hill and back. After two nights in Serifos, the wind had swung around to the south so we planned to sail to Kythnos. Great plan but of course the wind was not strong enough so we motor sailed. Did I mention that there is generally too much or too little wind? Before you ask, yes I am obsessed with the weather!!

After a lovely night at the very busy bay of Fikiadha in Kithnos (reminded me of Thompson Bay at Rottnest). At 05:30 we picked up our anchor and motored to Alimos Marina outside of Athens. Here we need to do some repairs such as install a new part for our toilet (“head”) and new propellers for our bow thrusters. We think we might have had a big fish get sucked in when we had to move our anchor when some considerate charter yacht decided to anchor on top of us in Serifos. We will also have Sarah joining us for a week as we joining through the Corinth Canal and across to Zakinthos in the Ionians.

stern looking forward

Thruster minus propellers