We had a good weather window with a forecast of 15 to 20kts on our stern for the passage to St John. Forecasts are just that, a prediction and as a result we clocked up a few hours motoring due to light and fickle winds. It was an easy afternoon and night passage.

That morning we were alerted to a vessel that was taking on water and talking with the USA Coast Guard. The Coast Guard lost communications with the vessel and they started to contact vessels in the area, including us. Through the Coast Guards communication with another vessel, we believed the vessel was in tow. A little drama to start the day. Later the Coast Guard advised that the incident had been resolved.

We arrived at St John, our pilot book noted an anchorage location in Cruz Bay for attending Customs/Immigration. Yet it neglected to note that the area was the size of a postage stamp and suitable for shallow keel boats e.g. catamarans. Unlike other ports that we had visited in Europe or the Caribbean, in the USVI the vessels captain and all crew must attend Customs/Immigration, therefore nobody is left on board. As the anchorage was not suitable and every other space in this small harbour was taken with private moorings, we found a nearby anchorage around the corner from Cruz Bay (Solomon Bay). We had reservations about USA customs as we’d previously experienced long delays at US airports. Our concerns were unfounded. We breezed through and in no time we were enjoying a plate of good old American ribs from a street side BBQ. It was a Sunday and we wondered the town amongst the many other tourists. It appeared most had come from the nearby US island of St Thomas on a day trip. The majority of St John is national park and thus it experiences a large number of tourists. I found Kim her birthday present (a very happy Kim) and we found a bar that had WiFi. On our return trip to Aura we found the mooring “pay station", a pontoon anchored in the bay with a post box for envelopes to leave cash or a form with credit card details. A sensible and unique system as most places we’ve visited have rangers or the mooring owners visiting to collect the fees. I also found a highly praised restaurant at a nearby resort for Kim’s forthcoming birthday. Booked, another tick :-)

View of Cruz Bay from beach bar

The next morning we motored to nearby Francis Bay / Maho Bay. It was well protected with aqua blue water and several small golden sandy beaches. The beach had a few holiday makers, who had all rented Jeeps and made their way to this secluded location. We stretched our legs and snorkelled. We had found another bay of Caribbean paradise.

During our stay we hiked over the hill to the Annaberg Ruins at Leinster Bay. The USVI were originally established as a Danish colony in 1672 and this island in 1718. We were at the site of a sugar plantation and factory. We were greeted by Bill a local gentlemen and volunteer who explained the distillery process. The cane was grown on the terraced hill that has now been reclaimed by nature. Initially the cane was crushed by horse power. This was later upgraded to a wind mill. Once crushed the cane juice flowed down to the Boiling House where it was boiled down into syrup in cooper pots. It was boiled until it crystallised into a crude brown sugar called muscovado. Lime powder was added to assist separation of impurities. These would float and be used to make rum (and I thought molasses was the base ingredient). The juice was ladled into cooling pans. Once cooled it was scaped into barrels, cured and exported for processing into white sugar. Bill also enlightened us of a Mount Gay distillery on the nearby island of St Croix and that he could purchase rum for only $3 bottle (wholesale, our price is $7). We then wondered through the ruins, passing the dungeon, through the Boiling House and ponded on the operation that was built on brutal slavery. On a lighter note, it reminded me of Stu and his passion for brewing and distillation of spirt. Oh and while we’re having a history lesson, in 1917 Denmark sold the islands for $25m to the United States.

Copper boiling pot

Windmill replaced the horses

We landed our dingy Helios, on the beach for a morning walk. We were kindly helped by a few holiday makers Heather and Chris to drag it up the beach. We found them and their partners Bill and Mike, on the beach again the following day. Next we are enjoying a beach picnic with a little rum. It was a fun afternoon and a prelude to Kim’s birthday.

a real local

For Kim’s birthday we had booked a special restaurant at the nearby Caneel Bay Resort. A lovely setting in the ruins of another sugar mill. It also had commanding views of the bay and a golf course. Our dingy was misbehaving as the new fuel filter had developed a crack. A challenge and risk for this special night as the winds had increased and we’d dressed for the occasion, a change from our normal togs and t-shirts. This was the best restaurant that we’d visited since Barcelona and fortunately we made it there and home safely without incident.

Kim was soon heading home to see her family and it was now time to check out the anchorage that was to be my base in her absence. We set sail for the 3.5nm passage to Christmas Cove at Great St James Island. It was only a half mile dingy trip to the USVI’s main island of St Thomas. We settled in, introduced ourselves at the St Thomas Yacht Club. The manager and members made us feel very welcome. This club has a great feel about it.

Christmas Cove

I headed across the bay to check out the neighbourhood; a yacht club member dropped me at the nearby village marina of Red Hook for outboard fuel. I then bused it to the nearby marina at Benner Bay where I found a new filter for the outboard. The return trip wasn’t so easy, I was given directions to the yacht club by a local who was smoking a joint in his front yard…..this guy pointed me in the wrong direction……not what I needed with the hills and heat. I eventually made it home :-)

Shortly after arriving at Christmas Cove, we were joined by Ian and Ann on Tourterelle. There was bad weather forecast so we had a day of eating, drinking rum and playing Mexican Train while the wind howled and the rain fell. Great day!!

Kim had an early flight so we rented a car so to ensure she got there on time. We took advantage of the car and toured the island with Ian and Ann. Making the mandatory trip to the supermarket and a normal sized department type store “Kmart” :-) We lunched at Jimmy Buffets Margaritaville resort and had a cheese burger in paradise; it was a bit of fun.

St Thomas Yacht Club

Kim embarked on her 40 hour plus travel haul to visit her family in Cootamundra while I returned to Aura to start on those maintenance jobs. Not before another tour of the islands gas (LPG) suppliers as Tourterelle had run out. A few maintenance jobs have been completed and few sundowners enjoyed with Lurata (Kiwis, John, Kerry & Davin) and swims. One evenings highlight occurred when a few dolphins entered the anchorage. We initially had concerns as one started floating on the surface with others nearby. It wasn’t a distressed dolphin but giving birth. Very special to have witnessed something so wonderful.

I’m now waiting for a part to be delivered and charts for the Bahamas. Yes I’m procrastinating the next job to polish the stainless steel staunchen’s. Kim will be back on board in a couple of days. Once she has recovered, we'll make passage to the Bahamas.

Also :
The Cove that has been our base for the last 3 weeks, there is a pizza shop! Nothing else, it's an anchored yacht and the name is Pizza Pi. They celebrated International Pi Day with a raft up event that included some free beer (that we missed out), music and even a live band.

Also is a pic of lure manufacture....we lost a favourite some time ago. The oil change and other interesting maintenance jobs did't make the blog.