Respect - Cruising the South Coast
The following morning was glorious. We picked up our hook and navigated our way out of the reef and headed to Black River Bay. The Black River is one of the longest rivers in Jamaica. What makes it unique is the large population of crocodiles that live there. We arrived in Black River Bay around lunch time. As it was Saturday, we needed to go to shore to do some provisioning as most places are closed on Sunday. We had struggled to get a good holding in the mud and silt. The wind had picked up and during lunch we had started to drag. We anchored for the third time. We watched our GPS for an hour to ensure we hadn’t moved before heading to town. Black River was bustling with people everywhere going about their business. After visiting the supermarket, we wandered through the fruit and veg market, purchasing fresh, local produce. As we headed back to Aura, it was obvious that she had dragged again. We also noticed that the Marine Police where wanting to visit Tourterelle. We went past and dropped off Ian and Ann while we took care of Aura. We just got the anchor down for the fourth time when they came over to Aura. As always, they are extremely friendly. Once they had left I checked our GPS reading and was pleased that we had not moved…yay…finally!!
Black River
The next day it was time to visit the crocodiles. We had originally considered taking our dingy up the river but as we know the reputation of the Australian crocodiles, thought it prudent to go on a tour. As we made our way up the river, we saw about five crocodiles. A couple of them came close to the boat. They all have names and they come when they are called. They seemed relatively friendly (and well fed by the tour operators) but no one was keen to go for swim. Especially when there are meant to be approximately 400 crocs that live in the river that can grow up to 5-6 meters.
Black River
The low continued to sit off the coast of Columbia resulting in strong winds and big seas across the Caribbean Sea. As we are heading east, we will have the wind and current against us so we want the seas to be calm. Hence we decided to stay at Black River Bay for an extra couple of days hoping that the sea state will decrease. With nothing much else planned, Ann suggested that we take Tourterelle with their retractable keel, to visit the Pelican Bar. We motored the 3nm down to the other end of the bay and where greeted by a small pod of dolphins. We had not seen dolphins since leaving George Town so it was a treat.
We anchored about 200m from the bar. As we cracked open a cold Red Stripe to wait for the anchor to set, the wind started to pick up. This was not on the agenda. We decided to have some snacks and wait for the wind to decrease. In the end we just decided to make a run for it. The bar is located on a sand bank next to a reef with the only way to there is by boat. I don’t think they see many dingys with electric engines. The bar is very rustic and small but interesting enough. We ordered a beer and proceeded to be windblown. We had planned on staying for lunch but had a vision of a nice fish getting blown off our plate and back into the sea. As more punters arrived, we decided to head back to Tourterelle for lunch. Ian made some bread and we had a very nice ploughman’s lunch followed by fresh pineapple.
Floyd's Pelican Island Bar
Our last day at Black River included some last minute provisioning and take-away jerk chicken for lunch. That evening Ian made an exquisite lobster bisque followed by beef stifado. It was an early night as the next day we were finally moving 13nm down the island to Grand Pedro Bay. This will be an overnight stop before doing a big 45nm to Pigeon Island.
Passage to Pedro Bay
Tourterelle arrived first at Pedro Bay and radioed to inform us that there was a lot of swell and was very rolley. As a result, we decided to continue another 13nm to Alligator Reef. We were not sure what the conditions would be like at Alligator Reef. It is approximately 3 miles off shore and 1 mile wide. In theory it should provide sea protection but you never know. A few strong gusts meant that our anchor was firmly down. The rain quickly past, leaving our decks nice and clean. I was keen to go for a swim but Si decided that we needed to go exploring. We jumped in the dingy and headed out to the small beach. The reef is a very special place with lots of birds, turtles and sting rays. We were even visited by dolphins. During the night the wind changed direction so I sat up on anchor watch just to ensure we did not drag onto the reef...not the best night sleep.
Alligator Reef
Early the next morning we set sail for Pigeon Cay. We lifted the anchor as a fishermen past wanting to sell their catch of lobster. Two for $10 dollars, how could we refuse. As we had already left the anchorage, Tourterelle negotiated the transaction. We put the main up in 14 knots of wind. In minutes the wind increased to 25 knots of wind. Aura found her sweet spot and took off. Meanwhile our GPS decided not to work so the wind was howling, the chart plotter was beeping and things were being thrown across the saloon. Not a good start to the morning. We eventually got things under control, reefed the main and genoa and enjoyed the rest of our day.
We eventually arrived at Pelican Cay. Ian and Ann delivered our lobster that we made into a delicious risotto. The following day after catching up on much needed sleep, we caught up on some boat jobs and went to shore to explore the island.
Pigeon Island
Later that evening three motor yachts arrived and anchored close to the shore. The next day after an afternoon of Mexican Train with Ian and Ann, we went to shore to say hello to the motor yacht peeps and the locals enjoying some time out on the beach. It was not long before we were invited back to the yachts and offered some refreshments. There were about twenty people in all, local Jamaicans who frequently visit Pigeon Island on the weekend. We had a great night in which we ended up staying for dinner. An amazing piece of beef that was cooked to perfection accompanied with jacket potatoes, plantain, chicken curry and salad. We were totally spoilt and got to meet some very interesting people who welcomed us with open arms. It was great to meet David (past Commodore) and Kathy (Fair Prospect) and their visiting friends from Latvia (Cameron and partner). They also gave us some good information regarding anchoring off the Royal Jamaican Yacht Club. More strong wind is forecast so need to ensure we had some level of protection.
RJYC
Kingston is not the prettiest or cleanest of ports but we spent a great week enjoying the yacht clubs facilities including the swimming pool and reasonably priced food and drinks. We caught up on a few boat jobs in the morning and then chilled by the pool in afternoon. We caught up with Gary and Louise on Takamoana who were on their way to Montego Bay. It was a great to catch up and have a few drinks to celebrate Gary’s birthday.
We went on an excursion to Port Royal to visit Fort Charles…the oldest remaining fort in Jamaica. It has an interesting history but much of it has been destroyed by numerous earthquakes and hurricanes. Port Royal was once known as a very wicked place as it was a haven for privateers and all the fun stuff associated with plundering and pillaging. Now it is just a sleepy and broken looking fishing village. We enjoyed a seafood lunch at Gloria’s, whole fried snapper with pickled vegetables. Not something that I’d normally order and I was not disappointed.
Port Royal (Kingston)
Our time in Jamaica is slowly coming to an end. We have now departed the Kingston port and we shall spend the day in the cays (Lime Cay). Lime Cay is only a few hundred meters long, a beautiful sandy beach. There are a few tourist day trippers enjoying the beach. As we entered the cays we passed a yacht (Bavaria 44 “Wavedancer”) on the reef at Racham Cay. Somebody has had a really bad day :-(
Wavedancer on Racham Cay
We will then check out before sailing to Port Bowden. From there it is a four day windward sail to Puerto Rico. An upwind sail plus into the prevailing swell is something that I am not looking forward to but here is hoping for calm winds and seas. We have loved Jamaica, the food, the landscape and its people. Glad that we visited as very few boats come here. That is the beauty of cruising…you can wander off the beaten track and find something really special. It is time for a swim to the beach.
