PASTA, VINO E GELATO
Passage from Zakynthos, Greece to Sardinia, Italy – 890 nautical miles later!!!
New Crew - Karolina Zoltaniecka aka Linka
Great friends Kim and Si were in Zakynthos Town and I discovered we were close by as I was on a neighbouring Island. So I took a short ferry ride to join Aura and we set sailed for southern Italy. We originally met in WA while studying at the University of Western Australia many years ago and we have remained friends ever since, meeting up at random places around the world. The tradition continues!
Passage to Island of Sicily, Southern Italy
We enjoyed amazing sailing from Greece with winds in our favour most of the journey over 2 days and 2 nights to the “boot” of Italy. Once we left Greece and lost sight of the shore we settled into the passage with our spirits high by day and enjoying our turns doing night watches under incredible stars and a quarter moon. Si did his happy dance in excitement of good wind strength and direction.
TAORMINA, Sicily, Italy
Bonjourno Italy! We arrived at a locals beach, hotel and popular anchorage and spent the first night on anchor jumping off the deck into the clear green water. Plus a view of Mt Etna and another smoking mountain. While celebrating our successful passage and lazying around the back deck we had a visitor. We were greeted by a swimmer who saw our Australian flat and swam over from the next boat with a surprise G’day. She was from Perth of all places.
Passage through the MESSINA STRAIT
It was fun motoring through the Strait. Si did an awesome job navigating and playing dodgems and battle ships with huge tankers, ferries, cruising ships and other yachts. The straits are turbulent due to two seas with different tides, temperatures and salinity. We managed to ride a few big waves and avoid the legendary whirlpools.
When we passed through the Strait there were these strange looking fishing boats, with 50 foot towers to sit and watch for sword fish and harpoon them from side long structures. The poor sleeping sword fish don’t have a chance!
BAGNARA CELABRA, Southern Italy
During the passage there was a technical issue with Aura, well specifically, another blocked toilet pipe so we stopped overnight at a small village marina and Si performed this thankless job of unblocking the pipe. It was so hot! After Si finished his shitty job, we headed to town for a swim and a couple of 1 euro Peronni’s at the local beach bar. The town had a great market full of fresh produce and a much needed Vodafone shop so we could reconnect to the world. We really enjoyed this friendly rustic local’s holiday village with us being the only foreign tourists around. This is a beach side village for the locals, it was special that we experienced these non-mainstream spots along the way.
Coast & Villages
SCARIO, Southern Italy
We spent the first night anchored outside the harbour, swimming and a little party time. Anchoring provides the privacy and space so we could play music at an enjoyable level (with Kim’s approval). We explored the village and negotiated a berth for AURA that we managed in our broken Italian. A lot of fun and we started developing our Australian/Italian diplomatic relations. Once docked we made the assisting mariners coffee. We had a few tunes playing and we had the mariners dancing. The lack of communication didn’t matter. They were so friendly that one of them wanted to get married to one of us ladies. We may have been able to get a better price for marina day rate, no such luck though.
The harbour was a picture postcard place with pastel coloured houses and date palms lining the streets. We enjoyed a long lunch at the best Italian Restaurant so far that served yummo seafood pasta with copious amounts of vino and then delicious melon gelato. A well deserved siesta was needed after that session.
There were only a few tourist which is what we really liked. The village was surrounded by national parks so we hiked a huge hill to the Torre (Tower) for some exercise. The last night were treated ourselves to delicious pizza, calzones more wine and lemoncello.
On Passage to SARDINIA
We waited in Scario for the weather and we soon set sail for Sardina. After seven hours of sailing with unexpected winds that were not in our favour plus rough seas, we aborted the passage and Si found a sheltered mariner called Acciaroli.
ACCIAROLI, Southern Italy
We had managed to navigate further north into the Amalfi region. The villages are becoming busier and more sophisticated. We docked in the newly renovated harbour, a feature for the village. Si worked his magic and scored a free mooring fee and didn’t need to show any leg or cleavage or accept offers of marriage.
The harbour and village was a gem with old Italian buildings and narrow cobbled laneways with bars and restaurant in the busselling pretty village. It had a wonderful arty vibe to the place entertaining us with late night music, fireworks and a fun atmosphere. And great gelato!
The village is apparently famous for Hemmingway visiting (questionable) and having over 300 people that are over 100 years of age.
On Passage to SARDINIA II
Our second attempt to sail to Sardinia was with reduced winds and seas. The winds may not have been at an ideal angle …… on the nose but we settled into the passage and our watch rotation. We motored, motor sailed and then we had the near perfect 18 knots of wind at 50 degrees. We enjoyed the stars and tranquillity as we glided towards Sardinia.
OLBIA, Sardinia
Busy, busy, busy. As we approached the coast we could see numerous yachts in the distance. We have arrived in yachting and super/mega yacht heaven. Another anchorage and then to the city of Olbia. As we negotiated the channel we contested for real estate with ocean liners, ferries and super yachts. Aura was re-fueled, cleaned and Si serviced the engine.
I headed to the airport, next stop Barcelona and coincidentally AURAs new crew members were arriving on the very same flight from Barcelona.
Welcome on board Taf and Leo for the next adventure!