Menorca – Mallorca – Ibiza

We said a teary goodbyes to Steve and Tash and made the ritual scouting journey to find a supermarket. Provisioning complete, we returned to Aura to find our neighbours uncomfortably close, it was time to move on from Cala Porte. We made a short trip (literally around the corner) to another idyllic bay.

According to the pilot book, this was the most beautiful bay in Menorca. It was isolated without any development or road, it did not disappoint. Later that day we realised that it was the same place recommended to us by a waiter in Barcelona. The bay is unique as it is surrounded by some 150 caves that date back to prehistoric times, not to mention the clear blue water.

Cala Cova

We made the decision to enjoy a little more time in Menorca before sailing to Mallorca, so we started heading back to our favourite “Boobie Bay”.  We set sail and soon realised the wind was from a suitable direction and strength to pull us towards Mallorca, so off we went. It was an easy day passage with the mandatory motor sailing…..lack of wind. We arrived at our destination, Cala De Font Salada, only to discover that the bay offered little protection from the south easterly wind and swell. We motored north to Cala Es Calo and spent a rolly night as the wind dropped out and in came the swell. The wind was now predominantly from the east and forecast to remain so. We debated on whether to head down the west or east of the island. The west has minimal development and anchorages but has some beautiful bays whereas the east coast has more anchorages and protected ports. The east coast won and for the first time we back tracked in search of a comfortable anchorage.

After two nights of very little sleep (Kim), we headed to Porto Colom.  Colom has a natural harbour that provided protection from the swell. The local government has filled the bay with mooring buoys, limiting the anchoring possibilities. We hailed the marina on the radio and were shown to a mooring. Finally we could relax for the night…or so we thought. Once the wind dropped out at 10pm, our neighbour’s +60’ yacht was too close for comfort. Close to midnight the marina told us we had to move and assisted us to a new mooring. I was not happy to be hauled out of my non-moving bed. It’s just part of that unwritten rule, if there is an issue, last in moves first. Good news is we got a free night on the mooring.

We followed our regular power program, using the generator to recharge the battery bank every morning and night. Unfortunately this time the generator alarm sounded and it shut down. It was a raw water alarm. The likely issue would be a blockage in the water pipe or a broken impeller.  The latter was the culprit and fortunately we had the required parts on-board. With all the comfort of a contortionist, Si replaced the impeller and the generator was working. Simon also took the opportunity to inspect the water maker and change the filter. Sounds straight forward but to get access you have to take the entire content of the locker out. We have a lot of gear!!

As a reward for the successful service work, we treated ourselves to a tasty tapas lunch and local wine. We knew we had to perform the ritual of finding a supermarket and a mobile phone shop but figured these chores could wait post siesta.

 

Porto Colom

After spending two calm nights in Colom, it was time to move on. We made a short journey (motoring) to the narrow Cala Mitjana. On arrival we found the bay with only 2 other yachts and these soon set sail. Is a gorgeous protected bay with high cliffs on both sides, a lovely sandy beach and a very large residential house perched on the hill. We anchored and took a line to shore as there was very little room to swing, It was not long before our quiet bay was invaded by day tripper boats and small rental power boats. The beach started filling up and more yachts with the occasional super-yacht popping in for a “look see”. They promptly left as there was no space. Fortunately we had prime position with a short snorkel to the beach and shelter from the incoming swell.   The best part was that once all the day trippers left, we pretty much had the place to ourselves.

Cala Mitjana

Our stay at Mallorca was short as we a schedule to meet.  Also we were both pretty excited to check out the fabled island of Ibiza, We made an easy night passage to Ibiza with a full moon to guide us. We arrived the following morning at Cala San Vicente, a very developed resort town with beach hotels packed with tourists. Not really how I had imagined Ibiza.  As the day progressed the bay filled with more yachts. Si was about to swim to the shore when the generator stopped working and of course it was mid-way through a load of washing! He re-checked the previous work and no error could be found. The flashing lights detailed a error code that didn’t make sense.

That night, the wind forecast was for a strong north easterly and we anchored Aura accordingly. We were unaware that the hills surrounding the bay caused the wind to swirl and in the early hours of the morning I woke up and realised we were facing the wrong way. We were facing south resulting in us being very close to the permanently moored boats. Si got up shortly after and we spent an hour deciding if we were too close. We brought up some chain but it only seemed to have brought us closer…it was time to re-anchor at 4am.

With swell washing around the bay, all the other yachts departed by 9am. Not wanting to be left behind, it was time to move on. We headed to our original backup destination Cala Biox approximately 5nm away, hoping that it would offer better protection. We anchored with our bow pointing into the swell and breeze, nice and comfortable.  We were only a few meters from the swimming buoy restriction zone. The beach was busy, so we snorkelled to shore to visit the beach bar for a couple of beers and to look at the local attractions.

After much research and consideration over the generator …it appears that it only operates on the port (side) fuel tank and that tank was very low. My gut feeling was that it was a fuel issue but having nothing to base it on (except that it behaved the same way my old Toyota did when it ran out of petrol) meant that my concerns could not be proven. Time to find a fuel dock.

Onward to Santa Eulalia, Aura’s port tank was refuelled and amazingly the generator worked! We anchored outside the marina, in a large open bay, strategically positioned to avoid the ferry boats and the marina channel. As per usual, other yachts soon followed and fortunately this time they kept a reasonable distance away, with a few needing to be informed not to anchor in the path of the ferry.  We took the tender to shore to undertake the usual reconnaissance for supermarkets and a laundromat. Our initial impression of Santa Eulalia was that it felt very much like Marmaris, Turkey with restaurants specialising in full English Breakfasts, Irish Pubs and shops with copy Euro Football shirts…very much catering for the English tourist market. We did pick up some Indian takeaway for dinner…first Indian curry in over 4 months :-) 

After another rolly night at anchorage, we up anchored and moved to a small bay around the corner, Cala Llonga. This bay is surrounded by cliffs with a golden beach at the end. A number of hotels have been built on and overlooking the cliffs but not too overbearing.  We did the regular recognisance to shore and found some nice restaurant’s and beach bars.  Plus it was calm at night with very little swell.

We returned to Santa Eulalia to do move more supermarket shopping and meet Monique who had travelled from Florida. We met in Bellagio Italy and hadn’t caught up since Rome two years ago. 

I was still trying to find the essence of Ibiza, why did people visit here in droves?

First stop was back to Cala Llonga for a swim and a visit to shore for Monique to have her first tapas and paella experience. Not to mention Sangria. Our last stop was the beach bar which closed at 12 midnight. Probably a good thing as Simon had to get two tipsy girls into a dingy and onto the boat.

Cala Llonga

Unfortunately the next day, I came down with an ear infection. Simon was really keen to see Klingande (French DJ) so we had a look at the shallow anchorage, Cala Talamanca located on the other side of Ibiza town. It was very open to the east and the swell was rolling in. Not an option for the night especially as Monique was starting to feel unwell. We tried calling all three marinas in Ibiza town and all were fully booked. It was just not meant to be....

We decided to head south passed Ibiza Town making our way through the narrow and shallow channel south of Ibiza towards Isla Espalmador and Formentera. Sheltered with a long sandy beach, this place had it all, great snorkelling, super yachts, beach bars and plenty of people watching. By the second day at this anchorage and a course of antibiotics, I was feeling much better. We even pulled out some classic Aussie rock from the 70’s, 80’s, 90’s that we played load and sung (a little off key). Great way to get boats that are too close to move :-) Monique is a fellow Australian, who Si was only too pleased to re-aquatint her with an Aussie accent, vocabulary and music. Monique stayed with us for 4 fun filled days. 

 

Formentera

As mentioned above, we really wanted to check out the Ibiza party scene but were not prepared to leave Aura on anchor. The only option was to find an available berth in Ibiza Town. We had been ringing the poor lady every day to see if a berth was available. Simon and I had both been unsuccessful so it was Monique’s turn to use her charm…and it worked. They had a berth available for Saturday night which coincidentally was Monique’s last night.

We decided to go Pacha’s “Paris by Night” event that runs from midnight to 7am. Our friend Di from Sydney said it was a must see with plenty of DJ’s playing that we had seen over the past 15 years. Monique generously purchased VIP tickets. No ques and we got to walk through the kitchen to get to our seats…so is this what it is like to be rich and famous :-) ? We were shown to our cordoned off area and white leather couches. As the night progressed the venue was wall to wall people. Getting to the dance floor was next to impossible. So glad that we had our own area that we could dance and people watch all we liked without being jostled about. Thanks again Monique for a fantastic night!!

 

 

Ibiza Town

Sadly, the following day we had to say goodbye to Monique after a fun four days. It was so great to catch-up and be able to pick up where we had left off. Will see you soon in the Caribbean or Florida!!

So the plan was to leave the marina and head back to Formentara before making our way to Gibraltar. Not long before we were about to head off, the marina guy said we could stay an extra night, Si was pretty keen to see Avicci at Ushuaia…so after about 30 seconds of deliberation, we thought why not. The event started at 5pm (also featuring KSHMR,  Seeb, Albin Myers and the Mambo Brothers). We could have an afternoon nap and be home a little after 12. I am so glad that we went. We had such a great time with some great DJ’s and the outdoors event was awesome. We met people from all over the world and all different age groups (we were not the oldest, maybe only just over the average age). We even managed to get home around midnight after picking up a kebab on the way home.

Photo by Ushuaia 

After two nights of fun, we headed back to Formentara for a little quite time. Too bad the guys on the super yacht next to us (Saudi Royalty) didn’t get the memo. .....Usually the place is busy during the day and everyone (super yachts) heads back to port at night. Fortunately it wasn’t too bad as the wind had kicked in so it blew most of the noise away.

We fare welled Islas Baleares, Menorca, Mallorca, Ibiza, Formentara and set sail for Cartagena on the Costa Blanco mainland. After a month, we only just touched the surface of these beautiful islands and coastline. Each island is different with its own charm…even Ibiza.