Bermuda Passage
For most people the idea of making a six day off shore passage is a chilling concept, some may choose the comfort of an ocean cruise liner while most will select the speed and comfort of an aeroplane. For us, it’s just about securing our home and moving it to the next interesting destination. Bermuda wasn’t on our “must do” list as it is 650nm off the coast of the USA, just a spec in the Atlantic. At present Bermuda is hosting the 35th America’s Cup and we thought how often would we be in this neighbourhood for the oldest international sporting trophy in the world? It is the pinnacle of yacht racing.
So we set sail in stronger than forecast winds, tacking towards the USA coast rather than a straight line to our destination. We had two solid days of windward sailing and then the wind stopped. We used our satellite phone to download GRIB data to our computer. These are raw weather models that we overlay on our chart (map) with a GPS showing our current position and our desired direction (waypoints). The weather forecast wasn’t a surprise as the weather gurus (Predict Wind and Chris Parker) had forecast light wind so we powered up the iron sail and made a direct line for Bermuda.
The colour and texture of the ocean changed with the time of day, it resembled a silk sheet lifted so gently over a bed then it turned to molten steel grey metal. Our AIS navigation overlay would alert us of the potential danger and we would watch these massive ships power past. Well this was the case with the exception of Gas Leo, a 1000’LNG tanker that was crossing our path. When they were a few miles ahead of us it just stopped and turned as if it was waiting for us to catch up. How strange is that? Maybe they wanted to offer us a tow :- ). We had fun coming up with a number of different reasons why they would just stop dead in the middle of the ocean. As we approached we contacted the ship using our VHF radio. They acknowledged our presence and we passed close by their stern. A few hours later they turned and headed north, we never did discover why they had stopped.
After nearly two days of motoring the wind strengthened and we set our sails and maintained our direct course for Bermuda. Easy downwind sailing, our visual contact with our friends Tourterelle was at time stretched as they set a gennaker sail that would deliver more power. Our daily routine continued, nights of 3 to 4 hour watches. Kim would set the fishing lines each morning and we spent the day reeling them back in to clean the seaweed. This was our first ever long passage with no fresh fish. Our fridge and freezer we’re well stocked so there was no chance of us going hungry. The early morning watch would often include the baking of bread or as a special morning treat banana bread.
We arrived in Bermuda to a light drizzly rain. We contacted Bermuda Radio, the Coast Guard, not to be confused with the local radio station. We advised them ofour arrival and they notified the customs services. We were granted permission to enter. They directed us into the cut that saw us safely into St George Harbour. After six days at sea, all we wanted to do was drop the anchor and catch-up on a few hours’ sleep but this was not to be the case. Bermuda Radio directed us to the customs dock for check-in rather than the usual anchor and dingy to the shore. The dock was a little broken with a bend in it. With the strengthening wind it was a challenge to tie up as they didn’t provide any shore side docking assistance. Fun with only two of us onboard but we managed with the assistance of a passing cruiser that took our lines. Once checked in we made our way to the southern anchorage just as two yachts were leaving. Perfect timing as we finally put down the anchor with plenty of chain in preparation for the big blow that was forecast the following day.
That afternoon after lunch and a nap, we had sundowner on Tourterelle with Ann and Ian along with Kelly, Jerome and Mia from Jiyu. The excitement of the America’s Cup was building as we planned our move to Hamilton, closer to the race course.