The call was made; Game 3 of our international rugby water polo was set to play out on the beach next to us. Kerpa (Sweden), Jiyu (France & Korea), Tourterelle (England) and Balanec (France) had now all moved to the protection of the two cays; Big and Little Major. We also had guest players from Trinidad and Scotland join us, the new friends who the previous day we helped out with the dingy tow. This match was a little more physical due to deeper water and the unknown if this might be the final round. The newest team members caught on fast getting into the spirit with a few dunkings, including their own team members. Another rule change was added to stop players running with the ball along the beach. We continued to ignore the odd forward pass. After the match, we recovered in the sand, watched the sun set and enjoyed a new rum punch mix, as we have used most of our juice supply. At least we still have plenty of rum…for the time being.

We moved on, leaving Staniel Cay cut on a high tide. After a fast passage, we anchored a mere 6 nautical miles north at Thomas Cay. Friends Rob and Cathy (BnG) had helped us map out our Bahama route had said that the neighbouring Little Pipe Cay was great for catching lobster. We set off in Tourterelles’ electric powered dingy with our snorkelling gear to find underwater ledges that lobsters would favour. The sun was shining, a little breeze and beautiful Bahama waters had us all smiling. Kerpa followed in their new powerful dingy…yes I do have dingy envy. The cay was marked with a small navigation light that appeared to be a restored ruin. As we circled the cays edge, we got close up and personal with a sea plane that had just landed and was turning towards us. We were not in any danger, just not what you were expecting.

We did not have any success in finding lobster but did find a great place to snorkel with colourful fish and coral. Jiyu, and Balanec were anchored at Little Pipe and were joined by Sir Henri, another Barbados 50 yacht. Later Jerome reported that they sighted a lobster however it eluded them as it took safety in the back of a small cave.

It was Kirsten Birthday and a fest was prepared. Foie gras pate was the starter, Ian cooked a whole filet of mahi-mahi with a herb crust and roast vegetables. Kim made birthday cake with Ian’s homemade icing sugar. It certainly looked the part as we sang Kirsten happy birthday. Everybody’s wine cellars were raided, ours is now non-existent, while the others still have a few special bottles that they had carried from Europe!

Later that night, we were woken to brilliant white flashes of light though our hatch. We had time to close the hatches, stow the cockpit cushions before all hell broke loose. In the last year, I do not recall a storm that blasted rain past our bimini covered cockpit and into our saloon. We had storm cell after storm cell, each time the lighting and thunder was closer. Our laptop and hard drive was moved to the protection of the oven, we hope that if we were hit it would act as an Faraday cage. The lightening was all around us, you could literally feel the electricity in the air. Two forks appeared to strike each of Kerpa’s masts, only 30 meters away. We ensured that we kept clear of our masts’ compression post while hoping that we would not be struck as we have the tallest mast of the three yachts.

After the initial storm past, we went back to bed for a short time before being woken to more thunder and an increase in the wind. Our depth alarm sounded as the current and mixed winds dragged us towards shallow water. We started the engine and using just our instruments for navigation, we motored forward in total blackness with no stars or moon to guide us. We moved into deeper water and took up a little chain, the anchor held. Kerpa swang towards the shore and they did the same. The strong wind continued but we could do nothing but wait until daylight. As dawn approached, we could see Tourterelle had also dragged and had re-anchored. We all escaped relatively unharmed, both Kerpa and Tourterelle now have some issues with instruments but no major damage. A yacht anchored close to Jiyu and Balanec suffered a direct hit, they lost all instruments, the electrical system was damaged that includes the operation of their engines….. a very sad night for these cruisers. On a positive note at least nobody was injured.

After the nights events we were all keen to move on and find a better anchorage. We had to leave the same way we arrived, back out the cut as the other channel was to shallow for our draft. Low tide was approaching and it was lower than usual, a negative depth on our charts. I took the dingy to inspect the cut and found it rough but “do able”. My concern was the low tide with waves, our chart detailed less water than our arrival. Ian and Ann had consulted their professional weather forecaster on the SSB – single side band radio. He indicated that we were more than likely to experience more of the same, another night of squalls with a high probability of lightening. Kim and I decided to stay, we had plenty of space the only issue was the current that would turn us against the direction of our anchor and that we could drag once again. All three yachts stayed and our catamaran friends on the neighbouring cay decided the same. We re-anchored (second time happy) allowing additional space between the three yachts and settled in for the evening, with an alarm set so I’d be on deck for the tidal change. Getting up to do my watch, I found a star filled sky, not a cloud to be seen. Our anchor had held firm. Fortunately we didn’t have a repeat of the previous night.

In calm seas and once again flying only our genoa we made passage to a small cove at Bell Island. A grand home sat on the hill top above the beach. The beach was full of toys and sunbeds; it looked more like a mini resort. The staff must have laid out the play things for the guest or resident. The bay was smaller than we expected due to the central location of a floating swimming platform. Several of our charts indicated that we had reached a dead end, our Explore Charts indicated a small sand bar. While we circled and discussed the options we were greeted by the owner on his jet ski, enquiring as to our plans. He was pleased once we communicated that we were not staying. Tourterelle’s forward sonar indicated we could easily cross the section in question and we continued a final mile to O’Brien’s Cay. Our high light at O’Briens was snorkelling in the coal garden and the low tide sand flats (these would have made the perfect pitch for our rugby/polo game).

Exploring O’Brien’s Cay

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O’Brien’s Cay - Crashed Aeroplane

Our next stop was Wadrick Wells, the head quarters of the Exumas marine and wildlife park. We anchored off Emerald Rock which was a fair distance from the main island. After a lovely evening with Torterlle and Kerpa onboard for lasagna, we decided that we had to reanchor further out as there was a bit of swell and we did not have much water under our keel. A negative low tide was expected so it was better to be safe than sorry.

The following day, Kim enjoyed a few hours of hiking the trails with Kerpa & Tourterelle while I toured the shore in Helios. They had only been gone for a couple of hours and I got a radio call to meet them on the beach with pineapple and rum. It was another beautiful Bahamas beach with white sand and turquoise water. So we all sat around dunking our pinapple into our rum…very civilised J

Pineapple & Rum @ Wadrick Wells

A picnic at Pirates Cove was planned. Another hike, this time across the island along volcanic type razor sharp rocks with random shafts. I found this challenging in tongs! I thought the plan was to take the dingy to the picnic spot not risk breaking an ankle crossing the island on a rock hopping trail. The path weaved its way to the next beach then another and then we crossed to the ocean side. This was still protected by another island. The effort was well worth it with everyone sharing fish pasties, quiche, pasta salad and coleslaw. Kim and I planned on an alcohol free day but the cold beer presented by Ian was too much of a temptation.

The final stop in the Exumas was Shroud Cay. It is one of the bigger islands in the chain with an extensive mangrove system. Kim and I had an initial look and were amazed at how beautiful and clear the water was, very unlike the muddy mangrove waters from home. The following day, Kim went exploring with Torterlle and Kerpa. They followed a passage through to the Atlantic ocean. Along the way they saw a few fish, birds and a very surprised tor turtle who had not heard the electric driven dingy sneak up behind him.

Shroud Cay - natural colours, no post production photoshop

Shroud cay - mangrove trip

A southerly wind was the weather window that signalled it was time to depart the Exumas and make our way north east to the island of Eleuthera. This limestone archipelago with sandy beaches and sheltered shallow water had been a special part of our journey. We’d spent the last month with both Paul, Kirsten (Kerpa) and Ian & Ann (Tourterelle). After a final game of Mexican Train and pizza, we said a sad farewell to Kerpa they as they were headed to Nassau. We hope to see them again in New York however they have plans to spend more time in Europe. It was not goodbye, just au revoir.

Reflecting on our time in the Exumas, Kim and I noted the uncrowded anchorages, the space and convenient proximity between anchorages (less than 10nm). We have barely touched many of the incredible cays and a fraction of the snorkelling spots that the Exumas has to offer. It was also a change to see an increase in motor yachts. The motor yachts styles ranged from trawlers though to super yachts, again it was different than other places that we had visited as their isn’t a supporting infrastructure (for their clientele) of high end bars and restaurants. It is a perfect place to explore and to make your own fun, especially with good friends.

A few motor yachts, these are for Leo :-)